阿坝，花湖，朗木寺，年保玉则 作者：SZHGFOX(未完)

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<>当我们来到格尔底寺时，夕阳已斜照。这里的寺庙和我们平常看到的汉族的寺院不同，这里的僧人有自己的住宅，就围绕在大殿、偏殿建筑的僧宅，且有门牌号等，基本上就属于民居性质吧。<BR>绕着这些迷宫一样的僧宅转来转去都没有找到去大殿的路。会同了两个福建来的ｍｍ一起，终于在这些宅居间发现一条小路通向小山上，那里就是格尔底寺的主殿和偏殿了。<BR>第一眼看到主殿，说实话，非常不喜欢。它和我意识里的常规的寺院好像不同，大殿外墙被用牦牛毛编织成的黑色毯子围绕着，黑色的底色，白色的花纹，乍一眼看以为是灵堂，感觉很不舒服。<BR>由于天色已晚，主殿已经关闭，于是来到偏殿，偏殿有人值班，过来打开大门，让我们进去参观。进去后才知道，这里供奉着格尔底寺第五世活佛的肉身。<BR>当时就觉得特别碜人，特别在听值班喇嘛说，那肉身就在佛象后时，我的鸡皮疙瘩都起来了，赶紧步出门外，门外的夕阳还斜斜的照射在寺院的墙上，终于感觉摆脱掉一些不适，回到尘世间的感觉。<BR>偏殿由于供奉的是活佛肉身，这里的藏民很虔诚的在殿前顶礼膜拜。大门口坐着一位藏族姑娘，长的那是真的美阿，高鼻，丹凤眼，绝对是超级美女。可惜在那个说不出味道的地方，我也不敢造次，不敢过去拍张美女照，不然大家就有眼福可以看到藏族美女啦<BR><IMG src="http://bbs.pgsqldb.com/images/smiley_icons/icon_lol2.gif" border=0> 看来还是要自己去看才行阿 <IMG src="http://bbs.pgsqldb.com/images/smiley_icons/icon_tong2.gif" border=0> </P><img src="attachments/dvbbs/2006-8/20068289314295311.jpg" border="0" onload="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onmouseover="if(this.width>screen.width*0.7) {this.resized=true; this.width=screen.width*0.7; this.style.cursor=\'hand\'; this.alt=\'Click here to open new window\nCTRL+Mouse wheel to zoom in/out\';}" onclick="if(!this.resized) {return true;} else {window.open(\'attachments/dvbbs/2006-8/20068289314295311.jpg\');}" onmousewheel="return imgzoom(this);" alt="" /><BR>

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<TD class=MsgSubText vAlign=top align=left>朗木寺－－塞亦寺的喇嘛们 </TD>
<TD vAlign=top align=right><IMG src="http://bbs.pgsqldb.com/theme/default/images/posticon.gif" border=0> <FONT size=2>四, 17 八月 2006 19:20</FONT> <a href="http://bbs.pgsqldb.com/index.php?t=msg&amp;th=9120&amp;start=0&amp;rid=&amp;S=b1b9b38bc57e328e4d41426d49290871#msg_num_1" target="_blank" ><IMG src="http://bbs.pgsqldb.com/theme/default/images/down.gif" border=0></A> </TD></TR>
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<TD vAlign=top colSpan=2 height="100%"><FONT>第二天清晨，早起，晃悠到丽萨餐厅早餐。那个大胡子老外很悠闲的已经坐在那里吃早餐了，他很友好的我们向ｓａｙ　ｈｅｌｌｏ，身边的人嘀咕道，这老外懂不懂中文阿，我赶紧压住声音说，没准他的中文比你还溜呢。<br>正吃的不亦乐乎时，来了两个女老外，背着相机包，拿着脚架进来吃早餐了。坐下来就向餐厅老板询问，可是语言不通，于是老板把大胡子叫上，结果大胡子乐颠颠的跑过去做翻译了。我们象个木头人一样坐在那里，原来这大胡子果然中文很溜阿。我不禁灰溜溜的想，难怪那天我在讲价时，他笑眯眯的看着我，原来都是明白人阿：）<br>慢慢溜达到朗木塞亦寺，阳光高照，昨天逛格尔底寺的阴沉和不适感在清晨温暖的阳光中消失的干干净净，心情也不禁明朗开阔起来。原来在担忧看不看天葬台的事情，很快就决定不去看了，这么好的阳光，这么美丽的景色，干吗要给自己压力呢，何不就这样悠闲的四处走走，看看，好好感受朗木寺这个神奇、复杂的地方呢。<br>塞亦寺位于小山坡上，沿着山路慢慢走上去，只见不远的地方一片喧闹，原来寺院的白塔正在维修，一群年轻的喇嘛们正在干活。走近看，原来是在做红砖。<br>这些喇嘛分为三组人，两组负责夯泥，就是把红泥用木棒打实，这是体力活，喇嘛们一边说笑嬉闹着，一边干活；一组是负责做砖，这是精细活。两个小喇嘛戴着金色的口罩，把夯结实的红泥拍打平整，在一块木板上涂上油，把平整的泥放在木板上，用一个很大的铜印章啪的一下盖在红泥上，然后小心翼翼的把压出花纹的泥砖用小铲子铲出来，晾晒在一块木板上。<br>蹲在旁边看了很久，觉得很有趣。正看的津津有味时，突然嬉闹着干活的小喇嘛们面带惊慌，停止打闹，个个都很努力的干起活来，抬头一看，只见一个头戴黄冠的一个大喇嘛过来了，身边居然还跟着个眉清目秀的秘书小喇嘛。原来这是他们的师傅之类或者是监工吧，他在那一站，所有的小喇嘛们都徨诚惶恐的，呵呵，我们在旁边看的很开心，原来这帮小子还有师傅克着呢。<br>清晨的塞亦寺显得清新、温暖和富有情调，和昨天傍晚看到的格尔底寺的阴沉感觉截然不同。大殿也在维修，由于昨天的 阴影，我也就没有进去参观了，而是站在殿外松树林荫下，拉住一个小喇嘛聊天。<br>大殿后的偏殿传来念经的声音，信步走上去，只见一个身披黄色褂子的和尚在给四个穿红色袈裟的喇嘛念经。他们席地而坐，位置很有趣，一个喇嘛背对着们，是侧脸对着念经和尚，其他三个则面对这和尚坐着。表情也是各异，背对着我们的看不到表情，其他的一个在打瞌睡，一个很认真的在轻声念着，一个在东张西望的，念经的和尚也不管，自顾自的不停的念经，看来念经的规矩还是比较松的。其实就象大学教授在给讲师讲课一样吧。呵呵，很有趣。<br>从偏殿往左继续往上走，大概再走20分钟左右就可以到天葬台。昨天据那两个福建mm说，今天没有“尸体”（实在是不敬阿：P），所以不用去看了，呵呵，原话就是这样说的。其实，真的对天葬没有很大兴趣吧，首先我觉得天葬是一个藏族的习俗，不是猎奇的对象，其次这也是对死者的尊重吧。不认为看了天葬就会多了可供自己谈论或者炫耀的资本吧。<br></FONT></TD></TR></TABLE></P>
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[此贴子已经被作者于2006-8-28 9:48:16编辑过]

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